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2022-06-26 17:00:42 THERE IS ALWAYS A PLACE FOR GUESTS (Part 6)
 
Reindeer herders receive occasional guests with great joy.
 
They put on the table sliced raw frozen Siberian fish, frozen lingonberries, salted pike caviar.
And if a deer was slaughtered on the day of your arrival, then you, will be presented with a bowl or a cup of warm deer blood, served on two hand palms, as a sign of respect and honour.
 
Once I was also standing with such a cup, blaming myself for weakness, trying to shut my eyes… but I could not make myself touch the china edge with my lips.
 
Fresh deer blood is rich in hemoglobin and iron. It saves reindeer herders from beriberi and scurvy. And children, accustomed to such a treat since they were little, line up with their cups, like school pupils for a portion of dessert.
 
After a hearty dinner, the host will tell you how he was running away from a pack of wolves on a reindeer sled, or how he caught a real huge fish, and you will be listening and nodding your head with a smile.
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2022-06-26 16:01:26 REINDEER HERDERS' CHILDREN (Part 5)
 
Throughout the school year children are in boarding schools, and in May they return to their families.
 
It happens sometimes that children refuse to return to the city to continue their education.
 
Unfortunately, sometimes this may happen involuntarily when an older family member or its head dies… The harsh tundra won’t forgive mistakes, bravado, bad habits which are also found among nomads, to be honest.
 
In that case, the eldest son or brother takes on the duties of an adult family member.
 
Children don’t talk much, but they know all aspects of life and, together with adults, do all the housework in the chum (tent): they can bring and melt snow, light the stove, set up nets, cook food, look after the younger ones…
 
But if you only knew how these adults in spirit, but still kids in behavior, meet occasional guests, how their eyes burn up if they notice your genuine interest in them!
 
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2022-06-25 17:00:58 ON THE EDGE OF ETERNITY (Part 4)
 
From 25 to 40 thousand reindeer herders roam in Yamal: Nenets, Khanty, Komi-Zyryans, Selpuks… In the summer there are more nomads as children from boarding schools join them during the holidays.
 
Not everyone knows that it is not the reindeer herders but the herd itself, led by the Alpha, who sets the direction of movement. Deer feed on yagel, and when the food has been "knocked out" in one place, the herd starts moving in the direction of fresh pasture.
 
As soon as the herd moves away from the herders’ camp for more than 30-40 kilometers, all chum-tents are removed, packed on a sled and the family moves to another place. In winter chum-tents are more often covered with deer skins, in summer synthetic materials such as tarpaulin.
 
Reindeer herders prepare bread and cereals for summer and winter. In the spring, 100-200 loaves of bread are dried on crackers, and by winter bread is usually frozen and carried in bags on sleds.
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2022-06-25 16:02:13 THE PATH OF LIFE (part 3)

In autumn, when larches turn golden, deer driven by instinct and herders' families following them set off on their journey back to the South, into the zone of tundra thin forests, where they will be able to find shelter rich in game, fish and fuel for heating their homes during harsh frosty nights, for almost six months of the long polar winter.
 
This life cycle has been completed for hundreds of years. Frosts, predators, snowstorms, avalanches, river floodings – everything that we've only read about in adventure novels – is and will remain the path of life of these unique people.

In the meanwhile, we are working on the next story watch our short video about the harsh nature of Yamal!

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2022-06-24 17:02:10 POLAR YAMAL (Part 2)

Year after year, this world is getting smaller and smaller under the onslaught of civilization. The internet and fashionable gadgets, social networks and television impose refined culture of consumption and new rules of life…

And there are very few places remaining on earth where everyday life and traditions have managed to stay safe from new fashionable trends.

Every spring the Nenets migrate from winter pastures far beyond the Arctic circle, to save their deer herds and the growing offsprings from midges and predators.

They would walk for up to 60-80 kilometers a day, then set up camp, and next day everything repeats anew. This migration takes almost a month. And nomands' families and their herds will spend all the summer months in the Northern regions, closer to the Kara sea where the cold wind and the lack of lush vegetation will protect young deer from midges and ever-present gnat.
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2022-06-24 16:01:06 CONO DE ARITA

We left Tolar Grande at dark. We had to drive almost 60 kilometers off-road, along the fields of the Solar de Arizaro salt marsh, which is the sixth largest salt marsh in the world.

Access to the salt marsh is complicated as there are almost no roads, and walking through the salt marsh is incredibly difficult because of the landform of the salt deposits, which look more like a giant grater.
 
Our goal was CONO DE ARITA, a cone of natural origin, more like a flying saucer. Scientists tend to think that this is an ancient volcano resting on a salt base.

There is a version based on local folklore and archaeological finds that in ancient times the cone was used as a ceremonial object of the Incas. This is what the cone looks like a few minutes before dawn.

During the day, when the light becomes more contrasting, the colour of the cone changes to dark brown, and the salt deposits acquire a dirty grey shade. Well, not really enjoyable, to be honest...
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2022-06-23 17:01:12 TOLAR GRANDE

By the evening, after having driven almost 400 kilometers over rough terrain, and after we had got lost twice in the Devil's Canyon whose name was given to it, apparently, because of the colour of the low sand-clay pyramidal mountains, we arrived in Tolar Grande.

In the old days, life was busy there. More than 5,000 people lived in the village. Some of the residents worked in the sulfur mines, and the others maintained the railway which connected the area with Chile.

The mines are closed now, and the railway is inactive. No more than 250 residents are living in the village, supporting the barely glimmering life of a small settlement. In a word, it’s a dump, a real hellhole, without gas stations and normal cafes.
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2022-06-23 16:00:52 I DID IT, HOORAY!

Every year, in July, according to a good tradition, we make an expedition to the mountain lakes and rivers of Kamchatka Peninsula, for observation, photo and video shooting of brown bears and bears’ salmon hunting!
In the daytime, participants go to the lake for their first salmon fishing!
The sound that is carried around is priceless!

"I did it, HOORAY"
Video, July 2021.

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2022-06-22 17:02:12 La Puna. Continuation.
 
It was time for us to move on. After we had left Pumramarka early in the morning, we took a long bypass around the Salinas Grandes salt marsh, towards the small village of Tolar Grende.
The further we moved away from civilization, the harsher the surrounding landscape became. We were climbing higher and higher and stopped seeing any llamas at all, but met herds of shaggy woolly alpacas instead.
In the middle of the journey, we managed to get a flat tire on a rocky road. Fortunately for us, there was a military base with a small village nearby on the way. There we found a God-forsaken tire shop and a gas station, the last one for the next 700 kilometers of the route.
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